Hills and Hollers

Arcadia Academy

2008-01-13T16:55:00.000-08:00

If you find yourself in the Ironton - Pilot Knob - Arcadia area, one place you won't want to miss is the Arcadia Academy.

When I was a kid, the place was called the Ursuline Academy, and it was still run by the nuns. When they moved out in the mid 1980's, it sat empty and fell into disrepair. Rumors circulated that investors were going to turn it into a resort, but nothing ever came of it.

The Academy is privately owned now, and I'm pleased to say that one of the most historic buildings in the region is being restored. It's a painstaking restoration to be sure, but least it is under way.

Following is the history of the academy as taken from the web page:

"The Arcadia Valley Academy has been towering over the Arcadia Valley for over 150 years. The original Academy was built in 1846 as a Methodist High School by Jerome C. Berryman. During the civil war it served as a Union hospital from 1861 through 1863. In 1877 the Ursuline nuns purchased the school and turned it into a girls school. The Academy operated as a school until 1970 which marked the last graduating class. The Academy served as a convent until the nuns were moved to St. Louis in 1985. Now under private ownership the Academy has become a living antique, currently on the historic register as a historic district. The architecture is some of the most beautiful in Missouri. The Chapel has some of the most beautiful stained glass windows in the world. The Gymnasium has a unique roof truss system designed in Germany. The entire complex has over two hundred rooms and forty-seven toilets. The Auditorium seats up to 250 people and was used for recitals, plays, and other productions.

"An historical article on the Academy was printed by the Prime Time circulation which was published by Iron County Newspapers and circulated with the Mountain Echo. It reads as followed:

"When the Rev. Jerome Berryman came to the Arcadia Valley his brother was already there. They decided to start a school of higher learning. It was almost pure wilderness. In 1847 when they started the school there was no Iron County or Arcadia Valley. It was called Arcadia High School. Rev. Berryman was known all over as a Methodist circuit riding preacher. Families moved here so their children could attend Berryman's school.

"By 1859 Berryman has moved on and Asbury Farnham was principal. There were 109 boys and 66 girls enrolled.

"At the beginning of the Civil War, the college was closed and the buildings were used as hospitals, as the Union forces occupied the area, in 1863 General Clinton Fisk insisted that the school be opened and the property reverted to Rev. Berryman. When he retired to Caledonia, Missouri, several tried to run the school, but were unsuccessful.

"The young men and women attending the school received a quality education. Most were local, but a glance at the roster of students shows home towns of Pocahontas, Arkansas and many others. Tuition was $10 - $16, board, washing, lodging and fuel, $80.

"In 1877 the college was sold to the Ursuline Order for $30,000. Father Hennessy of Iron Mountain pleaded with the church and they persuaded Mother Johanna to purchase the buildings and the grounds.

"There were two buildings in 1877 -- one, the original 16 room building of which three rooms were habitable; the other an unfinished four story brick erected in 1870, of which three rooms were usable.

"However the Sisters went right to work, and in 1878 graduated their first class of 17 boarders and some local girls. They put on an ambitious program for more than 259 guests.

"The school prospered. A 1902 photo shows 50 girls gathered around an artificial lake on the grounds. The beautiful St. Joseph's Chapel was built in 1907. A new four story wing was added in 1913, but the 1870 building burned in 1917, so immediately a three story wing was built. In 1922 another wing was added connecting to the Chaplains residence. The last building was the wonderful Gymnasium in 1930. During peak years more the 100 girls were bordered and educated there. They came from far and wide, including foreign countries.

"The Sisters were asked to take charge of parochial schools of surrounding towns including Graniteville. Pilot knob and Arcadia. Just getting there was no easy task. Even when the sister came there in 1877 there were few houses in Arcadia. The Sisters gradually increased their holdings, until by 1913 there was sufficient acreage for a Missouri Pacific Demonstration farm.

"Rules for the girls were very strict. They were asked to be silent except during recreation. The school was approved by the North Central Association, so the education offered was first rate. The music department was always available. The Auditorium was available for concerts, plays, etc. The school had a fine Library. The beautiful natural setting was enhanced by landscaping. The big spring has a lovely rock Springhouse.

"Many local girls attended the school until it closed in 1971. Finally the enrollment dropped, and it was no longer possible to operate the school. However the Sisters operated a day care center and many children had the privilege of learning from the Sisters. During the past several years one of the Sisters taught in the public school.

"Through the years, retreats and guests were made welcome on the campus during the summer months. 1977 was a centennial year, and although the school had closed in 1971, there was a huge celebration. Alumnae and friends came from far and wide. Many of the furnishings and keepsakes were sold and some property sold for the Senior Citizen Complex.

"The property as a school has been in the Arcadia Valley longer than any town, most the churches, and most the homes. The campus is a concrete example of our fascinating progressive past.

"Information gathered from the Berrymen Archives at the Historic Society, and the 100th Anniversary edition of the Mountain Echo, 1977, and other papers also in the Historical Society Archives."

Today the academy is home to an antique mall, a nice eatery, a bed& breakfast, and a stunning wedding chapel.

Drop by when the weather is nice enough to walk around and take in the history of the place. If antiques are your thing, there are several other places to hit before you leave town. One of them is in the old Commercial Hotel on Main Street.

Pottery hounds will want to stop by Chanticleer Pottery.

Fiddles and Forests

2008-01-09T13:16:00.000-08:00

I bought this CD for my wife for Christmas, and to be honest, I didn't have high expectations. As near as I can tell, it was recorded and produced at the Missouri Department of Conservation Headquarters in Jefferson City. For ten bucks, I figured it was worth a shot as a stocking-stuffer.

When we popped it into the tray on Christmas day, I think it's fair to say that we were both stunned. The quality of the music is on par with the very best of commercial recordings.

Here is the description from MDC's web page:

"You might call it an "Ozark" River Dance. Our new folk-music CD is a spirited mix of traditional Celtic jigs, foot-stomping Ozark bluegrass, and narrative enhanced by nature sounds. The CD brings to life the Scots-Irish and their trek from the lowlands of Scotland to the shores of America, and on to Missouri Ozark country. With more than 20 songs, "Fiddles and Forests" is the brainchild of fiddle player and Department employee Mike Fraser. The concept began as a live program in which he used music to entertain audiences while educating them about Ozark forests and history. The two-disc set features the story and songs on one disc and the music alone on the other."

I live in central Missouri where the ethnic heritage is primarily German, but I grew up in the eastern Ozarks. For that reason, I recognize more than some might, the Scots-Irish-influence on the culture of the region.

If you enjoy Celtic music, or if you are interested in the heritage of the Ozarks, pick up a copy of this recording. It's really quite good.

Murals of Cape Girardeau

2008-01-01T05:44:00.000-08:00

Strictly speaking, Cape Girardeau isn't in the Ozarks, but it's close enough that I'm going to count it anyway. Folks on the eastern side of the region get their television from there, and many a high-school graduate has gone on to attend SEMO.

I was in Cape recently for the first time in a while. Having had some minor involvement in the construction of the new bridge across the Mississippi River, I was aware at the time of the murals, but didn't really pay that much attention to them. I wish now that I had.

What do you do with an unattractive floodwall? If you are the city of Cape Girardeau, you turn it into a tourist attraction and dress up the downtown area. The Missouri Wall of Fame features murals of 45 famous Missourians. Further along, find the Mississippi River Tales mural. The 24 panels depict historic events in the history of the area.

While you are in the downtown area, have lunch or dinner at Broussards. Or, if Cajun cuisine isn't your thing, try instead, Dexter Barbeque. You can't go wrong.

At the end of the road -- literally

2007-07-01T11:04:00.000-07:00

The River's Edge Restaurant isn't a place you'll happen on to. You pretty much have to know where you're going, and even then, it doesn't hurt to invite someone along who's been there.

Located in Fredericksburg, MO on the bank of the Gasconade river, River's Edge is on the extreme northern edge of the Ozarks. The specialty is Cajun/Creole cuisine, with traditional fare on the menu as well. Prices are very reasonable and the food is out of this world.

I'm told that on busy evenings in the summer, the wait for a table can be quite long. I can't say that I've encountered that, as I'm rather more of a lark than an owl, but they have a well stocked bar and seating outdoors. If you're short on patience, the atmosphere won't be for you anyway.

To find the place turn north on Route 89 just east of Linn, MO. When you get to route J, bear right. Stay on J for 10 or 11 miles. You'll have to pay attention because Route N intersects and runs with J for a while. At the end of Route J bear left on a gravel road that looks like some one's driveway. A mile or two you'll see the restaurant on your right. If water comes up over your hood, that's the river and you went just a little bit too far. Back up about 50 feet and park your hoopdie wherever you can find a place.

There is a privately owned and operated ferry at Fredericksburg that greatly shortens the drive from nearby Hermann, MO. I've never used it, and I'm guessing that operating hours are subject to a number of variables. My advice would be to call ahead.

Enjoy!

Testicle Festival

2007-05-23T18:00:00.000-07:00

It's that time of year again. On June 2, 2007 the Olean, Missouri Jaycees will sponsor the 14th anual Testicle Festival. No, it's not a joke and I've got the T-shirt to prove it. For those of you that can't make it but have a taste for 'nads, check out these recipes.

Come out and join the festivities. More information is available on the Eldon, MO Chamber of Commerce web page.

Theodosia's Flock

2007-05-15T05:14:00.001-07:00

I haven't posted lately because I've been spending so much time working on my first novel, "Theodosia's Flock." When I say I've been working on it, what I mean is that I've been promoting it. It turns out that writing a book is the easy part. The difficulty lies in getting the word out to the right people.

At any rate the initial flury of release publicity is over now and things are settling back into a less frantic place. With the summer season almost here, I hope to get back to posting here regularly. Stay tuned, and while you're waiting, check out my book. It's available online through my publisher, Amazon and Barnes & Noble, or by special order through any brick-and-mortar bookstore.

Download the first three chapters FREE in Adobe Acrobat format here

Also, check out my web page

Dreamstone

2006-12-10T16:30:00.000-08:00

I can almost hear you scratching your head. What the heck is Dreamstone? I'm glad you asked! In the words of the gentleman who discovered it,

"MISSOURI DREAMSTONE is found only one place among the Precambrian knobs of the St. Francis mountain uplift in the Eastern Ozarks of Missouri."

That would be Mark Hadley. He and his wife Rita make jewelry from Missouri Dreamstone and you can find out more at the link below.

http://missouridreamstone.com/what_is_dreamstone.htm

If you are looking for a unique Christmas gift for that special someone, this might be just the ticket. Check it out!

Meramec Caverns

2006-10-28T07:57:00.000-07:00

I feel a little bit like a New Yorker that's never been to the Statue of Liberty. While I've driven past the exit for Meramec Caverns countless times, it wasn't until a few weeks ago that I finally thumbed the turn signal and turned off of I-44 at Stanton.

http://www.americascave.com/

I guess I've always assumed it was a tourist trap, and having finally gone there I'd have to say there is an elemont of truth to that. Above ground the gift shop is filled with cheap Chinese junk and there is a bit of a theme-park atmosphere. It was clean and well lit, however, and it was clear that the folks running the place are accustomed to accomodating a lot of tourists efficiently.

I'm not much of one for crowds or tourist hot-spots so I wasted little time forking over the fifteen dollar fee to join a tour. Below ground things were more to my taste.

Near the entrance to the cavern is a model of a Foucault Pendulum. I won't bore you with the physics. If you have an interest here is the Wikipedia article:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/foucault_pendulum

It would have taken hours to observe the Coriolis Effect so I took the tour guide's word that it worked and moved along.

There was a fair amount of BS in the guide's well rehearsed spiel, but to be fair he was quite knowledgeable about the speleothems, many of which are unique and spectacular. Photography is a bit tricky in a cave but herre are a couple of shots to give you an idea.

and this...

The tour is about a mile in length, all of it underground, and lasts a little over an hour. It's accessible to the disabled, believe it or not, and isn't physically demanding like some other less commercial cave tours I've taken. Wear sturdy shoes and warm clothes (it's 60 degrees and damp down there) and you'll be fine.

I had a good time. I'm in no hurry to go back but everyone ought to see Meramec Caverns at least once.

When you leave, if you are headed east on I-44, find an excuse to stop at Super Smokers Barbecue in Eureka for lunch or dinner.

http://www.supersmokers.com/

Bixby Country Store

2006-10-22T16:16:00.000-07:00

This week we are in Iron County, Missouri, in the little community of Bixby. It's at the intersection of Routes 49 and 32 and you'll know you're there when you see the convenience store with the caboose connected to it.

Believe it or not the store has quite a bit of history. It opened in 1906 and has been in continuous operation ever since. The post office, at the far end of the building and hidden by the gas pumps in the photo, is the only one remaining in Iron County connected to a store.

Take a look inside and you'll find an odd collection of antiques, including a slick old wood cooking that I covet in my heart. The propietors make sandwiches to order, and if you're of a mind, you can eat it in the dining area inside the caboose.

I'll grant that Bixby isn't someplace you'd just happen across unless, perhaps, you are headed to Dillard Mill State Historic Site. It's only a few miles from there.

http://www.mostateparks.com/dillardmill.htm

Swing by if you are in the area or just have a hankering for something a little different. Bixby is about 40 miles from I-44 at Cuba or 25 miles from Salem.

War Eagle Mill

2006-10-15T10:53:00.000-07:00

This weekend I wandered into a region of the Ozarks that I haven't visited in several years. Midway between Eureka Springs and Rogers, Arkansas, just to the south of Beaver Lake, is War Eagle Mill.

It's been beautifully restored and is fully functional, but unlike any other historic mill in the region I'm aware of, is commercially producing meals and flours. It was running when I was there and I took this photo of the water powered burr mill.

On the first floor, in addition to the mill itself, is an extensive selection of whole grain products to choose from. It was a beautiful October Saturday and visitors were lined up making purchases, myself included. On the second floor is a gift shop with the more traditional "touristy" items, and on the third a restaurant serving breads made from grain milled onsite.

I'm pretty into the whole-grain lifestyle, not necessarily for the health benefits, though that is reason enough by itself, but because it just tastes so damned much better than supermarket fluff. I went with the cornbread sandwich for lunch and it was outstanding. If your tastes run to Wonder Bread and french fries you might do better waiting until you get back to town.

Rather than recite the history of the mill here I'll save space and link to the excellent web page:

http://www.wareaglemill.com/history.htm

If you are in Eureka Springs and get weary of looking at Victorian Houses, or if you are in the Springfield/Joplin/Rogers area and want a great day trip, check out War Eagle.

On a side note, check out the old iron bridge in the first photo. It's a working piece of history as well. I particularly enjoyed walking across it because it reminded me so much of another great old bridge that sadly had to be replaced. On the Black River, just downstream from Lesterville, is a historic resort called Black River Lodge. Until a couple of years ago there was a turn-of-the century iron bridge there with wooden deck stringers. I always loved crossing that bridge. Here is a site with some great photos of it.

http://bridges.midwestplaces.com/mo/reynolds/lesterville/

The new bridge is wider, safer, and far more efficient, but I know a lot of folks like myself that feel like they lost an old friend.

UMR Stonehenge

2006-10-08T16:22:00.000-07:00

I wonder how many people have driven by this megalith countless times as they are passing through Rolla on Route 63 and never noticed it. It's not surprising, I suppose, considering that whether the motorist is traveling north or south, frustration with traffic flow is off the charts at that particular bottleneck. Recent changes to the signals and thru-lanes have managed to make things even worse, but that's another subject.

The stonehenge on the campus of the University of Missouri - Rolla is a partial reconstruction of the one on the Salisbury Plain southwest of London. It was dedicated on June 20, 1984.

The stonehenge is basically an observatory and the celestial surveying was done by none other than UMR's Civil Engineering Department (deletion of "Environmental and Architectural" from the new department title is quite intentional thank you very much.) An interesting aspect is that the stone was cut using high-pressure water. No kidding...they cut the stone with water. You can read about it here,

http://web.umr.edu/~stonehen/

That's why the edges of the stone have a rather unique texture,

It's worth taking the time to see if you are in the neighborhood and have an interest in such things. You'll find it next to the highway between McNutt Hall and the observatory,

http://www.umr.edu/admin/images/map.jpg

Parking at the university can be a pain if you aren't used to it so you might want to park at Panera Bread and trot across 63 on foot. If you don't feel like playing Frogger in real life you can take your chances finding a visitor's slot open on one of the campus parking lots. When I have business with the school I generally park in one of the very convenient permit-only lots and throw away the ticket if I get one (what are they going to do, withold my grades?) I wouldn't necessarily recommend that practice to others though.

When I'm in Rolla I generally aim for Alex's for lunch. Give it a try!

http://www.alexspizza.com/

Alley Spring and Mill

2006-09-29T17:20:00.000-07:00

Alley spring is one of my favorite places. No matter how many times I go there I enjoy it just as much. And why not? It showcases one of the most scenic examples of an Ozarks spring with a historic and picturesque mill.

Alley Spring is a place that must be visited at least twice to be fully appreciated. The first visit should be made during a busy time when the Park Service has everything open and on display. I had the opportunity to stop by this past Labor Day and the mill was open to visitors. All of the machinery is in place and still operable and definitely worth seeing.

The old one-room school house was open as well and all the kids were having a grand time ringing the bell. Actually I could have lived without all that clanging, but the faithfully restored classroom was a delight as always.

I hadn't been by in a number of years and something that was new this time was the period general store.

A Park Service employee in period dress was there to answer questions as well as, I'm sure, to keep visitors from "liberating" the antiques. I walked inside and she was standing so still that took her for a mannequin. When she spoke it startled me so badly that I nearly did a backflip off the porch. I can laugh about it now.

The second visit to Alley should be made during the off season when you have the place almost to yourself. Late Fall or even Winter are good choices. Wear sturdy shoes and walk both the upper and lower trails around the spring. Trust me on this.

This would make an excellent destination for anyone that enjoys Fall colors and scenic drives. The park is located just west of Eminence, MO on Route 106. There aren't one hundred feet of continually straight road for 50 miles in any direction and there are several places where you'll be able to see your own brake lights, so allow plenty of time. If you'd like to bone up on your history before hand here is a good web site:

http://www.nps.gov/archive/ozar/history.html#anchor142535

On a final note I'll mention that good eateries can be few and far between in the more remote areas of the Ozarks so I'll make recommendations when I can. If you find yourself in Eminence at meal time I highly recommend Winfields

http://www.winfields.com/

I have a particular fondness for historic buildings that have been resurrected and this is a fine example. The homestyle cooking looked and smelled great but I opted for the Saint Louis style pizza (Not exactly Imo's for those familiar with the gold-standard of pizza but pretty darned good all the same). I look forward to stopping by again.

Enjoy yourselves!